Flores Day 5: Finding The Last Village of Ngada & Bena

10 November 2011

Water is the natural cure for illness. Since I failed to get any medicine to ease my swollen throat, i tried to drink as much water as possible. It helps somehow. At least this morning I feel  a lot better. The next destination is Bajawa. It's another rocky road. Out from Riung, i feel relieved. The weather is better. Chilling. We drive up to the hill. Follow the stoney road to the timber forest. It is a tough road. We're slipping several time. Trapped in the mud holes in the middle of the road.

After going up and down, then we arrive to one of the key highlight of the trip. A visit to Ngada tribal village. To me, it's like entering a lost world! In the middle of the forest, out of civilization and I can see group of another traditional house. It's so cool. It looks so ancient and exotic.

There are two village we're about to see. The first is Ngada, a community that is situated near Mountain Inerie. The village consists of two parallel rows of traditional with roof made from hatch. Similar to Lio tribe, they also have male and female house. We can see the sign at the roof. Ngadu signpost is a warrior-like figure that represent male ancestor of a clan. It symbolizes fierceness and virility.  The opposite is  bhaga. A smaller hut that resembles a miniature of traditional house. It symbolizes the sanctuary of the house and female body. Therefore the house become the point to hold ritual for female ancestors. Nearly half of the house are decorated with buffalo horn. The number says of the how many time the house owner sacrifice their buffalo for community offering.

Ngadu & Bhaga House

The Ngadas, lives happily ever after

We walk further to another village. A bigger one name Bena. Such an interesting place with 34 traditional house lined up on both sides of a terraced landscape. 

Bena Village from Virgin Mary Shrine

Antique Ornaments

Different than before, this time Vitalis let us explore the village ourselves sans his accompaniment. Bena village has more inhabitants. I feel awkward for wandering around, so I try to be friendly and smile. A woman wave us, invites us for coming to her house. She's waving an ikat with her husband. She speaks very good bahasa, something helps us for a better conversation.

Ikat isn't just a color and fabric. But it's also sisterhood and a life of hand in hand with each other.

Smile from Flores

two generation of clothes making?

Basically the woman think i am celebrity from Jakarta and she asks if she can touch my check. Ughh.. a bit creepy. But she's friendly, so i try not to worry too much :D.

Not long after, her neighbour is home. A young man with vanilla seeds in his hand. I never see how the real vanilla looks like aside of in the powder format. This is really my first time.

A man who sales vanilla

One of the most awesome point of the village is at the center where we can see megalith stones formation. The woman said it is the place for ceremony and sacrifice. The one hold to connect the people with their ancestor.

I'm so amused with the beauty of this village. The view when we approach it make me feel like a scene out of adventure movie: Lara Croft, Indiana Jones.. anything like that. I'm glad the village has been part of UNESCO program. I've just read in internet, UNESCO has involved to maintain its architectural integrity such as the grass roof as well as village's cobble walkways.