Thursday 27 December 2012

Simeulue Day Two: What does Haram Mean?


Rain was very bad on my 2nd day in Simeulue. It had been for day and night. Initial plan was to go for jungle trekking and waterfall. But, for sure it's a-can't-do. The track would be too slippery and not to mention about flood. So we just relax at the porch. I looked at beach in the front and the greeneries at its surroundings. My mind flew back to last year, the same time I did overland trip in Flores and passing Riung - a very poor and dry area. I could understand the hard life in that place since water is almost as rare as gold. But poverty in Simuelue, I just couldn't believe it. The island has it all. Beautiful beach for tourism, fertile land for plantation, open ocean for fisheries. It just need a good hand to start scratching. But it also need a mindset change to let it tickle since this place definitely needs outsider's help.

And I heard Nanik, the lodge owner, share stories about her struggle educating local people about welcoming tourist. Local chased western tourist with knife, stole their bikini and called Nanik a whore for hosting tourist. In general, local sees tourist as a threat. They will ruin the culture and spread the disease. Well, not all local. Cuz the real local we met  are mostly all nice, relax and friendly. It just there is system and few people who provoke them to be cautious and being a close-minded one. 

Simeulue people is this friendly when there's no religion push. Very welcoming and loves to blend.

A funny thing, when we dropped by to warung or local eateries, people looked at me head to toe and the first question they asked is "what is your religion?" When adult threw me that question, I lied about my religion as I don't want to deal with the next question or any preach for not wearing headscarf and wearing short. 
But when the kids asked, I gave the a more honest answer as I'm curious with what's coming:


Kids          : What is your religion?
Me            : I'm a moslem
Kids          :  You go to mosque?
Me            : Sometimes
Kids          : Can you wear kerudung (headscarf)?
Me             :  Yes, I can. But I don't wear it.
Kids          :  Are you allowed to swim?
Me            : Of course! Why not?
Kids (female):   We can't. It's not allowed when there're boys. It's haram.
Me            : But boys are swimming in front of you. Is it haram for them too?
Kids           :  (smile shy and shake their head)

The girl next to me really wanted to swim but can't as it is haram. Anything fun is haram for girl, but not for men.


So I called the boys and asked some question:
Me            : Is it haram for girl to swim?
Boys         : yes.. yes.. haram.
Me            : why?
Boys          : (giggling and laughing. One of the bravest boy gave me a shocking answer).. swimming makes you show you boobs. hahahaha
Me            : But you swim naked. It's also haram. and you're being impolite saying that words.

Boys rule the island and define what haram means
The girls agreed with me that it was impolite, so I gave them power to punish the boys and pulled their ear. Pretty fun… hehehe.  The girls liked it and now the boys learn that they can't assault woman in the name of religion. But yeah, somehow it shows a closed mind can see only one thing. In this case, either beach or boobs. I wish religion can do better than just seeing boobs. Cuz there are a lot to see in this island and how the key word can evolve: beach-tourist-relax-refreshing drink - good seafood - restaurant - money - income - happiness - better future.

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